Fair Weather Bikers

We awoke to a very wet day. After breakfast we were presented the bill and sure enough the crappy meal had cost us £18 each. Nig wasn't happy - wasn't happy at all. I sorted the bill out as Nig was loading he bike. I got all my gear together and we left sharpish. We stopped for petrol in the town and were served by the English owners - this was the least Scottish Scottish town we'd very been to! A very weird place - not sure I'll be in a hurry to return!

We had two choices for our route to Durness - the scenic twisty coast road or the quicker more direct central route. Initially with the very wet weather we were going to do the direct route but we both decided that we were wet already so we might as well enjoy the ride and do the more interesting route.

Shortly after leaving the petrol station a police car coming very fast the other way went through a large puddle just before it passed Nig. A large wave completely engulfed the already pretty angry Nig. He was not amused, not amused at all. Initially he was going to chase after the police car and give him a piece of his mind, but instead we stopped for a while to allow Nig to calm down a lot. Luckily the scenery helped, it really is a very nice part of the world in them parts.

We got going again and as we approached the coast the weather improved massively - the sun came out and the roads dried up. We had a wonderful enjoyable ride all along the coast. Unfortunately once we started heading back inland the rain returned. We stopped at Ullapool for a drink and then continued on our way.

The road from Ullapool to Durness was all single track roads. The landscape was very bleak and wild - lots rocky mountains and valleys - it was fantastic. The weather didn't matter very much as it there was no mist so we could still admire the beautiful landscape.

Unfortunately Nig's visor was constantly steaming up, but a quick bodge to force a small gap at the bottom soon sorted that.

After a very wet but enjoyable ride we arrived at 'Smoo Cave Hotel' in Durness. It was nice to get into our warm room and out of the wet gear. My hands had turned black from the dye in my gloves and the insole of my boots had come loose. By this time my boots were very good at letting water in but very bad a letting water out - so I could feel the water sloshing about as I accelerated and braked - not nice!

We were going to go for a walk to look at the Smoo Cave but the rain stopped play. So instead we went to the bar and had a very nice meal and then a few beers in the very lively bar. The weather continued to deteriorate and it became truly wild as the night progressed. The wind was howling down the chimney and the rain was battering the windows - it was fab!

We had a few games of pool with another couple of lads who were touring on the mandatory BMW GS's made oh so popular by Ewan and Charlie! They were good lads though and we had a good laugh with them. They were only popping in for a couple but ended up staying most of the night. Once they left the locals kept us entertained and made us very welcome.

Much later than we intended and after far too much alcohol we turned in.